A beginner's guide to reading cosmetic labels  

For marketing purposes, cosmetic products are designed to be appealing, but they might contain ingredients you may prefer to avoid. Ingredients that can be sensitising, irritating, or even harmful.

Be mindful and informed, so that fancy packaging and clever wording on labels will not make you believe that the product is something that it actually isn’t.

For instance, a popular marketing trick is to highlight ingredients that are only present in tiny quantities that could not have any effect, but sound very attractive on the label.

Other companies use words like ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ to give the impression that the product is made entirely from such ingredients, when that isn’t the case.

The front label

Ignore marketing terms like 'hydrating' or 'brightening', which are meant to catch your attention. Make sure you read the ingredient list for confirmation.

Ingredient order

Ingredients are listed in descending order from greatest amount to least amount present in the product (except ingredients present at a concentration of less than 1%; those can be listed in any order). The first 5 to 10 ingredients make up the bulk of the product.

Key active ingredients

Identify key active ingredients. Use active ingredients that match your skin's needs. If you're looking for anti-aging, look for products which contain retinol, for hydration, look for hyaluronic acid and for brightening skin, look for Vitamin C or glycolic acid. According to your skin type, select products suitable for oily, dry or even sensitive skin. 

Allergens or Irritants

By checking the ingredients you can spot potential allergens or irritants (e.g fragrance, essential oils, menthol,etc). Bear in mind that if the ingredients are at the bottom of the list, they are present in low concentrations and are less likely to cause irritation. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) is a commonly used ingredient. As a substance it is generally considered safe and mild, but some people may be sensitive to it and it can cause itchiness, irritation and dry out the skin. 

Expiration dates

Check the expiry date and recommended usage after opening. You don't want to be using expired products because they could lead to skin irritation and they also smell funny. 

Instructions

Always follow the instructions on the label. Some products should be used in the morning or at night. For example, Vitamin C is best used in the morning under sunscrean, whereas retinol is best used at night time.

Scientific names

Plant-based ingredients are listed with their Latin names (always two words) and a common name in brackets, e.g rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) oil, which is rosemary essential oil, or helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, which is sunflower oil.

Some ingredients sound very ‘chemical-like’ and you might think it's bad for you. That is not always the case. There are plenty of common or naturally derived ingredients that have complicated names, but are safe to use and even have an important function in the product. Here are few examples:

Cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol has natural origins and is often produced by coconut oil. It is a fatty alcohol that stabilises emulsions and has a moisturizing action (emulsifier). It is not drying as pure alcohol (ethanol).

Citric acid, even though it has the word ‘acid’ in it, it is not harmful. It regulates the pH levels of the product and protects it from microbial contamination.

Tocopherol, It is vitamin E, an antioxidant vitamin, which protects the product from going rancid.

What you should avoid in your skincare

There are many potentially toxic ingredients that can be present in cosmetics. Some are more dangerous than others. As such they must be limited and used with  certain conditions. For example, allowing their use in specified product categories, age-groups, or rinse off products. Other substances are simply too dangerous to be limited and are outright prohibited from use. 

The EU has a list of banned and restricted ingredients in the Annexes of the Cosmetic Products Regulation, which regulates the cosmetic industry to some extent and protects people's health.

On the other hand, the US FDA has prohibited and restricted fewer ingredients compared to the EU. EU has banned more than 1300, whilst US FDA has prohibited only 11.  

In the EU a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) is mandatory before placing a product on the market, whereas, in the US the manufacturers are responsible for ensuring product safety.

Toxic skincare ingredients

Parabens are mainly used to extend shelf life of the products. They are found in hair products, body wash, deodorants and cosmetics. While the EU allows some parabens in low concentrations it has banned the ones linked to hormone disruption. 

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are foaming substances, found in body and face wash products. Psychologically, if we don't have foam in our body wash or cleanser, we might feel that they are not cleaning our skin properly. But this is not the case. We do not need SLS or SLES to clean our skin. Although they have been associated with cancer, there is no scientific study that proves it. They can trigger skin allergies, so if possible, avoid using products with SLS/SLES. 

Phthalates are chemical compounds added to plastic bottles. So what are they doing in skin care products? They make them feel more pliable and at the same time allow the fragrance to stick to the product. There are three known phthalates:

DEP (diethyl phthalate)

DEHP (di 2-ethylhexl phthalate) 

DBP (dibutyl phthalate) 

Fortunately, all three types of phthalates have been banned in the EU but not by the FDA in the US where DEP is still allowed. Phthalates have been associated with a lower reproductive rate, making people sterile. 

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) is a very common skin care ingredient which is added to thicken products. PEG has been associated with infertility and higher risk of certain cancers. However, once again, there is no direct correlation between PEG and cancer, so it is still allowed in most products. Nevertheless, if you could find products without PEG it's better to use them instead. 

Triclosan or Troclocarban are two ingredients are added in products to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in skincare. Triclosan has long been rumored to cause endocrine disruption and infertility, although it has not been banned in the EU, its use has been heavily restricted. Therefore, it is not permitted in food contact materials, but it is still allowed in toothpastes, mouthwashes, soaps and deodorants. 

Ethanolamine are used to make skin care products feel creamy. They go by these names: DEA, TEA, MEA. Some ethanolamine compounds like diethanolamine (DEA) are prohibited entirely or restricted to specific applications, while monoethanolamine (MEA) and its salts can be used, but they must meet strict purity criteria.

By knowing what you should look for and what to avoid, you can make a more informed decision as to what products you select. The truth lies in the labels, not in fancy bottles. So don't get dazzled by them, or by celebrities who allegedly use them. Do your own research!